AHA vs. BHA: What Does Your Skin Type Need?

Much has been said about the importance of skin exfoliation. It offers an array of benefits, from brightening to acne control. But when choosing an exfoliant that suits your skin type, things can get confusing really fast. Knowing the difference between AHA vs. BHA – the two most popular exfoliating agents in modern skincare – is crucial to getting it right.

If you love skin care, you have seen products with AHA and BHA labels. While these active ingredients look (and sound) similar, they target different skin concerns. One is better for sun-damaged skin, and one is better for acne-prone skin. To help you find the perfect match, check out this comprehensive AHA vs. BHA breakdown.

The alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family is found in certain foods, such as fermented milk, sugar cane, and fruits. They come in different molecular sizes – a.k.a penetration power. Smaller molecules can penetrate deeper into the skin, while larger molecules offer a more even exfoliation (and less irritation). The most popular AHA includes glycolic, lactic, citric, and malic acid. You can find them in varying formats, such as cleansers, toners, serums, and even body wash.

AHA is known for its brightening effects, but it can target other skin conditions. The water-soluble acid dissolves dead skin cells that accumulate on the top layer of the skin, improving texture and preventing clogged pores that lead to acne. As it reaches the second layer of the skin (dermis), it breaks down old collagen fibers to make way for new ones.

In addition, AHAs promote faster cell renewal and restore the skin barrier. All these are beneficial if you’re dealing with uneven skin tone, melasma, acne scars, and fine lines.

Since AHA attracts moisture to the skin, it's a winner for dry skin. For beginners, it's better to start with lower-intensity formulas like lactic and malic acids. These have larger molecules, so they're less likely to cause irritation. Once your skin is used to AHAs, you can gradually increase the concentration or switch to something more potent, like glycolic acid.

AHA is also a suitable exfoliant for outdoorsy types because it can undo sun damage on the skin. However, using makes your skin extremely prone to sunburn, so be diligent with applying sunscreen. The best way to prevent this side effect is by exfoliating your skin with AHA at night and washing your face in the morning.

Pimple-busting salicylic acid is the most popular beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). Between AHA vs. BHA, the latter has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial qualities that fight acne. It also helps boost the skin's resistance to UV damage. This versatile ingredient has many other advantages, and you can find it in many cosmetic products, from skincare to makeup.

To differentiate AHA vs. BHA, the former is water-soluble, and the latter is oil-soluble. BHAs can bypass layers of oil inside pores, effectively unclogging them of whiteheads, blackheads, and other debris. It also regulates oil production and prevents new buildup from forming.

Given their antibacterial nature, it's no wonder BHAs like salicylic acid are a popular choice for treating inflammatory acne. And since they have the same exfoliating power as AHAs, they also help improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.

BHAs are excellent exfoliants for oily and acne-prone skin. As with any active ingredient, slowly add BHA to your routine instead of immediately using the highest percentage in the market – these don’t always guarantee better results. Test it out on your skin and see how it reacts.

If your skin becomes red easily, consider using a product that combines BHA with other skin-calming ingredients. Try a gentle cleanser and exfoliant like Eskinol Pimple Relief Micellar Water with salicylic acid, cica, and green tea extract. It removes makeup, soothes the skin, and fades pimple marks.

It's not necessary to use both as they can be too much for the skin. However, some types of AHAs work better when paired with salicylic acid. For example, you can use a salicylic acid cleanser and a glycolic acid toner. It’s best to consult your dermatologist before layering them and don’t forget to do a patch test!

Definitely! In fact, they work better together. Niacinamide helps keep the skin moisturized after exfoliation and refines the appearance of pores. You can use  POND'S Bright Miracle Ultimate Acne Control Facial Foam to get this benefit. Formulated with vitamin B3+ and the world's first Thymo-BHA, it treats acne from the root in only three days.

While you can have exfoliants and retinol in one skincare routine, using the two at the same time can lead to severe dryness. A workaround? Skin cycling. You can use either AHA or BHA today and do retinol the next day. Adding hydrating products with hyaluronic acid can also help keep your skin comfortable.

The AHA vs. BHA decision comes down to understanding your skin type and its specific needs. One acid is not better than the other – they simply deliver different benefits. If you’re dealing with rough texture and discoloration, AHAs are worth a shot. Meanwhile, if you need help refining your pores and eliminating acne, BHAs can be your champion.